Agra, India — The home of The Taj Mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World and a classic symbol of eternal love. This was my third stop on a whirlwind trip through India with my friend Dan, and the adventure began as soon as we arrived. We mistakenly booked our train ticket to a station an hour outside of the city, and our journey to town proved to be a real nail-biter. We jumped in a tuk-tuk and hit the highway in the dark, splitting lanes and chugging along at about 20 mph while flanked by massive semi trucks, which zoomed past and swerved at the last minute to avoid flattening us like pancakes. I would wholeheartedly suggest choosing an alternate means of transport to Agra — a car, perhaps. When we finally arrived, I was pleased to find a city full of raw, unpolished charm and friendly locals (along with, of course, plenty of tourists who likely arrived by more traditional means). Like anywhere in India, the streets of Agra were flush with unfamiliar sounds and smells, ancient beauty, and lots of friendly street cats (one of whom I was almost coerced into adopting).

After sleeping for about three hours, we hopped in line for the Taj an hour before sunrise, hoping to beat the crowds. We arrived to find that we weren’t the only ones with this bright idea, and after an hour of waiting, I got kicked out of line for bringing too much camera gear — pro tip: leave your tripod at home and don’t bring multiple lenses. Definitely don’t try shouting at the security guards — it…doesn’t help.

There’s no question that the Taj Mahal is everything you've heard and then some. We finally entered the complex just before sunrise to find it almost entirely shrouded in smog from the heavy pollution, giving it an even more mystical appearance. It’s difficult not to be struck by its serene, almost surreal beauty. As the haze broke and the sun crested the horizon, the marble cycled from blue to orange and, eventually, to its trademark polished white. Fun fact — slowing the effects of pollution and keeping the Taj white requires regular mud baths, which act in the same way as a facial treatment.

After spending the morning here taking hundreds of photos (and posing in nearly as many selfies with curious locals), I wandered through Agra’s bustling markets and back alleys, where I encountered friendly kids and decidedly less friendly monkeys. While most people suggest checking out the Taj Mahal and moving on to your next destination, I’d say it’s worth spending at least a day here to experience more of the city. Like anywhere, beauty can be found if you come with an open mind, take the time to explore, and engage with the locals!

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